I love to travel.
I love that it gives you a chance to completely jump out of your old routines and explore new things. I love that even something as every day as buying washing powder becomes an adventure. I love being out of my comfort zone. And of course, I love eating new things.
But most of all I love how it makes you appreciate home.
For the past six weeks I’ve been incredibly lucky to have been on the road. Planning holidays isn’t exactly my Irishman’s strength. Whereas I am someone who is always thinking about the next trip. So I was delighted when I asked him where we should go and his instant response was ‘New York’. Great minds.
And that’s how I came to spend a wonderful, intense month in the city-that-never-sleeps. With an apartment in fabulous Soho, pretending to be a real New Yorker, I had lots of time to explore the edible treasures and some not-so-edible ones as well.
Most people, of course, don’t have a whole month to explore so I today I’m sharing my highlights tour of New York. It’s what I would do if I were visiting for 48 hours.
I was also lucky enough to meet a whole slew of fabulous food bloggers at Lara and Heidi’s book signing last weekend in Seattle. And finished off my tour with a few sunny days in San Francisco. Watch this space for highlights from the West coast part of my trip.
It’s lovely to be home!
how to spend 48 hours eating & drinking in new york city
dinner day 1. Momofuku Ssam + Milk Bar
My favourite of the Momofuku empire, Ssam bar is buzzy and fun with seriously great food that doesn’t take itself too seriously. No bookings so have a drink out the back in the Milk Bar while you wait. Pretty much everything is good. The rib-eye for 2 that we shared on our second visit was well worth the hefty price tag. I believe the words ‘best steak, ever’ were floated around. Save room for the surprisingly light desserts or finish up your meal with something sweet from milk bar or one of their thick shake cocktails.
breakfast day 1. Russ & Daughters + Gimmee Coffee
Russ & Daughters is the real deal for bagels, cream cheese and smoked fish. Highly recommend the ‘everything’ bagel with cream cheese & smoked salmon – ask for the bagel to be toasted. They don’t have seating so be prepared to eat on the run. I’d also pick up a coffee from the caffeine addicts at Gimmee Coffe.
If you’d prefer a more sit-down breakfast, go for the eggs at Balthazar (see below)
lunch day 1. Momofuku Ma Peche
While the space is a bit funny with the peach coloured wall, the food at Ma Peche is the business. The focus is more Vietnamese inspired than Ssam bar. They take bookings and the lunch menu offers excellent value. There’s a milk bar attached as well so you can fill the need for something sweet.
dinner day 2. Torrisi Italian Specialties
A fabulous hole in the wall that happened to be 2 doors down from my apartment, The vibe is intimate and the food goes beyond Italian influences. Love the set menu that changes every night. No bookings so you need to get there around 5pm to put your name down for a table, even earlier if you’re there on a Saturday. Then pop over to the wine bar at Public for a drink while you wait, or make the most of the late opening hours of Soho shops. They also do a roaring trade in more casual sandwiches, veggie sides and eggplant parmigiana at lunchtime.
breakfast day 2 The Breslin
With one Michelin star, The Breslin at the Ace Hotel was another favourite. While their lunches and dinners are great (the lamb burger rocks), I really enjoyed the calmer scene for breakfast. Great tea and poached eggs with curried lentils.
lunch day 2 Marlow & Sons (Brooklyn)
Although it is billed as a diner, there’s nothing cheesy about the decor at Marlow & Sons. We’re talking rustic at its best. Well worn wooden tables & bar and lots of very old mirrors with that lovely patina. The food is fresh and finds the balance between comfort and creativity.
bonus dinner: Fette Sau (Brooklyn)
Strictly for carnivores, this is the one barbeque to rule them all. The vibe is casual, just order and pay for your chosen meat(s) by the pound, grab a drink from the bar and find a spot at the communal tables and dig in.
If you have more time…
Cosy East Village wine bar that has a seriously good list but fortunately doesn’t take itself to seriously. No pretension here. The menu is simple and you can easily make an evening of it. Fellow fino sherry fans should know they offer free sherry if you get there before 6pm.
Momofuku Noodle Bar
The original momofuku and well worth a visit. Loved their pork buns and the cauliflower more than the ramen (noodle soup).
If you’re into tricky booking systems, degustation menus, and intimate settings, Ko is worth the hassle. Bookings are only taken 7 days in advance so just logon and refresh your browser every time you walk past the computer. Loved the whole sitting around the bar watching the chefs work vibe.
For those who love to be challenged while they eat. The tasting menu at WD~50 keeps you on your toes. Although there is the occasional down, it’s mostly all good and definitely not boring.
The Meatball Shop
With a fun, casual vibe and rustic decor as you would expect the Meatball Shop is all about meatballs. Love the concept – choose your meatball, choose your sauce, and choose your sides. Who knew meatballs could taste this good? Or be this varied?
A massive emporium of all things edible and italian. Worth having a stroll through or stop by for a glass of wine or a casual meal.
John Dory Oyster Bar
Located near the Ace hotel in midtown, the place to go if you’re a fan or seafood. Really enjoyed doing a little oyster exploration with different species from the East and West coasts.
With big recommendations, there’s always the danger of high expectations. I suspect this happened to us at Recette. On the more formal end of ‘shared plates’ the were some good moments but noting earth shattering.
For modern Mexican in NYC, I think you’d be hard pressed to do better than the newly opened Empellion. The brainchild of Alex Stupack whose last gig was as a pastry chef for Wylie Dufresne at WD~50
An institution and wonderful little space. Meant to be amazing for brunch. My dinner was good but the experience was marred by the feeling of being rushed to turn our table over.After reading Gabrielle Hamilton’s autobiography, I was glad I visited in spite of being made to feel part of a production line.
il Laboratory del gelato
There’s something for everyone at this little gelato mecca. From plain vanilla to cheddar cheese and everything in between. Loved the rosemary gelato and the beet.
Possibly the most recommended place when I was preparing for this trip. While the food is OK, I did love the faux-Parisian bistro decor. Very safe and calming – a little oasis in the city. The patisserie next door is really lovely for a sweet treat.
on my list for next time
- 1for8 – sushi
- Paulie Gee’s Pizza
- Blue Hills at Stone Barns for lunch
- Per Se
- Sushi Yasuda
- Txikito – Basque tapas
- Fatty ‘Cue – barbeque meets Malaysian
I’m also in the process of pulling together similar lists for Seattle and San Francisco – will pop a link up when they’re done.
And apologies for the photo quality – these snaps were just taken with my iphone because I decided to leave my camera at home. I’m not much of a travel photographer – I prefer to just experience things when I’m on the road rather than trying to capture it all.
We’re launching our new class at the Stonesoup Virtual Cookery School later in the week. Watch this space for all the details!