How to spend 48 hours eating and drinking in Paris

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I’d forgotten just how much I love Paris. On my last visit back in 2004 I wasn’t in a place to be able to appreciate its charms. So it came as a bit of a surprise to me just how much I enjoyed the beautiful city of lights this time round.

I kept catching myself thinking ‘I’d love to live in Paris for a while’. At the very least I hope to return again soon…

updated June 2016

How to spend 48 hours eating & drinking in Paris

Lunch Day 1. Le Comptoir
A classic bistro near Odeon metro station with tiny tables sandwiched outside, you really know you’re in Paris when you’re eating here. It can be difficult to get a reservation for dinner unless you’re staying at the hotel. So the best bet is to join the queue of people waiting for tables for lunch from midday.

UPDATE: My Irishman and I headed straight to Le Comptoir for an early dinner during our honeymoon. The ‘no bookings’ policy extends to weekend dinners. Happy to report this old favourite totally lived up to expectations!

Dinner Day 1. Au Passage
A funky little place in the 11eme focusing on shared plates. LOVED the food here – just my style. Simple, produce driven and damn tasty. If you’re like us and aren’t organized enough to get a booking, rock up at 8pm to snag one of the spots at the bar.

Breakfast Day 2. Holybelly Cafe
I love the mantra at Holybelly that ‘it’s good because we care’. They even have it printed on their mugs! Awesome coffee and a creative menu.

Lunch Day 2. Rose Bakery
Ever since I picked up a copy of the Rose Bakery book, I’ve been dying to go here. Love the format of having big salads, tarts and cakes all displayed out the front, similar to Ottolenghi in London. And the good news is that even with lofty expectations, I wasn’t disappointed. So much so that we ate lunch here 2 days in a row.

Dinner Day 2. Bistro Paul Bert
For another real Parisian bistro experience, Paul Bert is the goods. Love that on their menu they tell you their red meat is only served rare or ‘sangnee’. Don’t even think of ordering a well done steak here. The foie gras with blackberries and the desserts were a highlight. I got serious food envy of my Dad’s heavenly dessert souffle.

If you have more time…

A rustic and edgy wine bar come restaurant. Love the set menu where they just keep bringing tasty morsels. Highly recommend going with their wine pairings – some delicious interesting vino from small producers.

Saturne – modern restaurant in the financial district. Beautifully presented food with flavours that lived up to the visuals.

On my list for next time…

Pierre Hermé
For another macaron experience.

Chateaubriand or Le Dauphin
Bookings are a must at these two uber popular places. The former more restaurant the latter more bar with food.

Apparently the hottest place in town at the moment which explains why we couldn’t get a reservation! Next time I’ll be more organized.

Clamato & Septime Cave
More casual offerings from the Septime crew.

Le Verre Volé and Aux Deux Amis
More wine bars that are also serving interesting food in the Vivant vibe – casual with a focus on deliciousness.

Le Servan
A place that has boudin noir wantons on the menu. Need I say more!

Clown Bar
One of those casual wine bars that just happens to do amazing food – my type of place.

Thanks to

Pat Nourse, Clotilde Dusoulier and the guys from for their recommendations.


For more cities:

See the Stonesoup Guide to Tasty Travel.